Kimberley Kruising

It’s almost done and dusted – our year of making good ‘living our dream’ is now floundering in its last days as we are drawing closer to the home address.

Although there are some tangible things that give an introduction and some evidence to the truly, madly, wild and wonderful time we have had (like the 30,000klm extra clicks on the odometer and references and photos made to you within this blog)  you won’t really  know what this country can do to your senses and soul unless you have experienced it for yourself.

We believe the best of and most profound discoveries we made and experienced during our journey could not be captured by our words or photography. As so many moments of natural living beauty and surprises occurred – in the darkness of night; the rising and setting of the sun; submerged beneath the water amongst coral reefs; in the smell, temperature and sounds of a diversity of landform;  or attached to the darting of brilliant coloured and sounding birds; and for the most part was from the dynamically changing vision seen through the window of our rig as it hurtled its way through the rocky and dusty tracks of the outback and around the pristine coastlines of our less civilised highways.

Added to these naturally occurring discoveries, our adventure has exponentially added to our knowledge and understanding with respect the geological and social anthropology that has given shape and definition to this country.

What an advantage to be present in and see with our own eyes and learn from the educational references available on site. It has increased our awareness for the historical sequence and placement of events in regards to Aboriginal ancestory and culture, European visitation and exploration, our Colonial heritage and our participation in each of the World Wars.  We found ourselves emotional at times as the implications of the impacts on people were made all the more real and chilling. Generally this was in the manner of monuments, museums or storyboards, and other times it was by people who took the time to share their special places, cultural practices and personal insights with us.

So our message is…if you are a citizen of this great and lucky country, there is no time like now to begin to plan your next or first trip into this your big and broad backyard.  If you are from abroad, well it’s time you came and joined the thousands of others from across the globe who we observed taking up the seats of special tour busses and choppers to get better access into the far flung wilderness areas. There was also hundreds of young backpackers in campervans doing it their way, on the cheap in the free camps with the freedom of time on a working or travel visa.

We can live now with ‘no regret’ having taken our curiosity away for the year, only a renewed and calculated passion to take up any future opportunity to explore some more.

We thank all of you who have taken the time to read and view this blog, particularly our family and friends who gave us a reason to stay in touch and accountable to share and communicate our travel learnings and whereabouts.

We also want to acknowledge and thank the team at Kimberley Kampers Ballina and Express Tools and Camping Unanderra who assisted in providing us with the most awesome home away from home. Their attention to designing a truly off- road and robust, fully self-contained Kruiser has been our freedom, comfort and pleasure all the way. After sales support second to none. Big Thanks!

It’s time to say our final goodbyes, from a year that was a gift to us.

Thankyou all for your interest, encouragement and support.

Ros and Dean

Yes…this is the end!

ps. For last lot of snaps as we made haste across the Nullarbor and a mosaic of Kimberley Kruising Header snaps, please go to home page of this site and click on bars at top left of page.

The satellite map seen on the tele for the daily weather watch may well define what you might expect to find when travelling into the different regions and climes. Having marvelled for years at what looked to be quite an intense green velvet pocket in the south west corner of WA, I now understand why it equates so. It’s a much cooler region with many more days of cloudy skies and rain – similar to Tasmania. Combined with the deep layers of nutrient rich soils accumulated from thousands of years under an expanse of heavy forest  makes for a pastoral and agricultural rich region.

We perceived ourselves as miniature when we walked through the undergrowth of the giant Jarrah and Marri trees. We clambered up some 67 meters of a Karri Tree. We enjoyed a birds-eye perspective as we strolled the skywalk through a canopy of Tingle trees. All these magnificent species have to be experienced first hand, as no photos will reveal the power of their presence in these giant southern forests.

Where the land is cleared gives way to the farms and vineyards this region gets it’s reputation for.  It’s good dairy, fruit and wine. It certainly has become a gourmet travellers gustation with all sorts of new and creative industries adding their touch to the tapestry. The cultivation of roses seemed effortless, a common feature in most gardens and vineyards, so blooming lovely all over the countryside.

The Margaret River beaches were truly a secret surfers paradise with little crowds, a lot less hype in relation to the size of the wave,and so far …without any tourist strip tackiness and skyscrapers.

Lucky us were given the secret coordinates to find the location of this perfect beach break …a locals only hotspot.

Remembrance Day this year was made all the more meaningful and memorable in our visit to Albany – the birthplace of the first Dawn Service tradition. A tremendous effort in the building of a ANZAC Centre which opened last year to commemorate the 100th Anniversary. Together with some well designed Memorials and Monuments amidst this physical landscape where 41,000 Australians and New Zealanders left for the first world war, this important history comes alive and falls into places not felt before. An unexpected addition to this occasion was to be there during the visit of Prince Charles and Camilla.

Having turned the corner around the southern most point of the south west we now travel east and are on course for the homeward bound journey. But alas! Esperance it is, for a beach goers escape, we have found ourselves trapped, surrounded by fires. Our delay is immaterial, and as we learn of the sudden and tragic loss of lives and livelihoods consumed by these raging fires our hearts go out to this community of hardworking people who are showing incredible unity in adversity. We pray for the farmers who have lost everything, and the families whose loved ones have been taken. As an aside, we are impressed with the investment the Esperance Shire has made to provide and maintain such innovative and pristine community and tourist facilities along its bayside and coastal foreshores. The best of all shires we have seen.

First Women Jockey to win a Melbourne Cup. Wow girl.Well ridden and wonderful to watch.

Its a daily question and quandary as to which road to take when making your way down the great Western State. Usually overwhelmed by the many options, and the time required to ‘properly explore’ we usually defaulted to the road most southward bound and as close to the coast. This would then be followed by the statement. “Oh well, another area that we must come back to do next year! ”

Its a wild and wonderful coast between Port Hedland to Perth, and with hundreds of coastal townships and thousands of beaches. We decided to focus our attention on just three areas.

The first of these was Cape Range National Park, with the brilliant Ningaloo Reef. This is the reef where those spotty whale sharks come to visit each year between May and August. Although we were outside this time we were not disappointed with the other multitude of underwater fish and corals seen whilst snorkelling in this pristine place. With no underwater camera – you are just going to have to put it on your  own bucket list and see it for yourself. Closest town is Exmouth. Easier then the GBR when all you have to do is walk 10 meters into the water and put your head under. Absolutely Awesome.

The whales could be seen every day, as they made their way down the coast, and a great place to catch them against the backdrop of the sun sinking into the sea was up at Point Vladamigh Lighthouse, along with some other colourful characters.

The second was the world heritage listed area of Shark Bay. On the  map of WA,  this can be seen as the finger like projections which includes the most westerly point of the Australian continent. It is also home to some fascinating 3,400 million year old Stomatolites – microbial mats which were once earths earliest ecosystem producing oxygen into the atmosphere.

We tucked ourselves away up into the Francoise Peron National Park, having had a brief encounter with the tourist trap of Monkey MIa. This required us to tow the Kruiser for some 20klms on a soft sand dune ttrack through some fun bends at pace with 15psi in the tyres.

It was well worth the trek, as we had a prime position where we could kayak, fish and enjoy such a special wilderness.

I am satisfied I have my balance right now, having seen the sun emerge from one ocean and dissolve into another on the same line of latitude, my lifelong infatuation with visiting Geraldton has been now achieved. This was the third area of attention and there was plenty of smaller seaside towns that had some resemblance to places  like Lennox and Yamba on the east coast.

And those of you who know how much I love gardens and flowers…I can report I have been spoilt beyond belief. The roadsides and landscapes have been ablaze with so much colour and diversity. Rare to me flowers  prevalent in one place, not to be seen again in another.

August was a great month to find the sea again having been in the middle of the Kimberley for the previous two. The colour of the water was a stunning splash of aqua in the eye – both the ocean and that in the bay.The beautiful thing about the Broome-scape is how it continues to hold onto the deep red and signature hues from the inland of the Kimberley whilst fringing it within a coastline of pristine white sand and turquoise sea. It is understandable why this place is the destination of thousands of well seasoned (and tanned ) grey nomads who make their annual migration from across every part of this continent. Cable Beach for the obligatory end of day sundown and Roebuck Bay to observe the incoming and outgoing 9 metre change of tide along with the stairway to the moon phenomena, makes this place a seismic success for just sitting.

It was nice to get the van and vehicle cleaned up from the dust of the Gibb River Road, and get the kayak back into a salty sea. The view of and from what became our campsite for the month was very, very nice. So was meeting up with some friends from home and also made along the way. The lovely Maryanne here from Mt Barnett on her way back home to Harvey Bay. x

What made the experience so much more, was to have much missed son Taryn, come and join us for an exhilarating week of adventure further north into the Dampier Peninsular. We took a flight on a seaplane up to the Buccaneer Archipelago, covering the area that we would be driving over the following few days to the top of Cape Leveque. Having been taken through the Horizontal Falls on a high powered boat and getting up close to numerous feeding sharks it will remain as an unforgettable day in our memories – and for Dean, having been given the pole position as co-pilot.

Back in Broome, we were treated to more interesting events which included a visit to the Malcolm Douglas Crocodile farm, some wonderful Aboriginal performances, film and art during the Shinju Muzuri celebration of Broomes multicultural history, and sculpture by the sea.

There is only a few times during the year when the tide goes out so low that the remains of five Catalinas that were bombed during WW11 in the bay become exposed. We were fortunate enough to be there at this time to make the early morning walk to see and reflect on this event in our history.

Along with the tides, this western side of the Kimberley has a profound effect on those who come by, as witnessed by the people who make a habit of returning year after year, or those who find they resign to stay.

When we entered the Kimberley’s from the east of Kununurra at the end of June, we thought we might take about two weeks to complete the 700 Klm long Gibb River Road. Two months later …we have reluctantly emerged from what has been a life away from the everyday. There is so much more then 700klms of corrugated and rocky road that passes through Aboriginal lands and cattle stations. But for now here are some views from the passenger seat. Vibrations included.

With time and permission to get side tracked, we did just that. The climate was consistently kind and predictable; cloudless blue skies for more then 60 days, daytime temperatures maxing out at 30*C and evening dropping to 15*C. We were graced with an endless supply of Kimberley sunrise and sunsets with hues of pink, amber, and blue behind silhouettes of elegant boabs. Every range and gorge held unimaginable spectacles of landforms and rock types and contained bio- diversity that just kept surprising.

And then some more…as the sun played upon these millions of years old land forms, leaving us motionless as the red majestic rock became orange and metallic before folding into a rich magenta against the violet of the closing sky.

An opportunity to stay and work awhile with an Aboriginal owned service was a welcoming and appreciated experience to have. It also allowed us to set up camp for a month alongside a pristine flowing creek while the busy influx of 4WD family camping from the three states on school holidays, swarmed the waterfalls and holes.

The gorges are all different, regardless of the claims of some ‘seen one, seen them all’ we heard some say.

We have learnt, experienced and now safe keep some new understanding of the local people and their dreaming stories.  The connection they had to this land and its preservation for thousands of years prior to European settlement seems very rationale in relation to conservation of the environment and species that are now extinct. Something European arrival and countless governments since have not given due to and have instead prevented the ecologically sound management that occurred prior. We were lucky to see thousands of year old rock art. These things are sacred to the people who continue to maintain their cultural linkages and law, so we respect this by not photographing and telling outside the context it is best understood.

However, the following story and painting by Jack Dale a Kimberley man that hangs in a gallery in Derby depicts some of the harsh treatment of his people in the early 1900’s is something we do have some responsibility to acknowledge and give recognition for the ongoing harm it has caused.

As dark was this past, there is plenty of inspiring things that keep the spirits light and high in this vulnerable but proven to be resilient Kimberley country.

And to finish this very long post of our time on the Gibb River Road I will reveal how Dean taking time to manoeuvre the Kruiser into particular campsites usually pays dividends.

We have been in the Northern Territory for the last six weeks and have been embraced by its immense diversity, colour and culture. We have fallen victim to its power that just stops us in our tracks  – sometimes it is just to stare and soak up the new view, other times it is to be stirred and challenged by what was once the most ancient and incredible living culture here.

Our journey mid April till June 10th

Red sand and soil from the southern border reaching up to Tennant Creek

Feeling excited as we approach Uluru for the first time

Camel ride to see the sunrise

Ormiston Gorge West McDonnell Ranges just west of Alice Springs

Layered and pressure forced rocks provide many striking landscapes

and then there is the stretches of timelessness that has called us into a more relaxed routine, particularly now we have finally arrived into the warmer parameters of climate, (not to mention all the cleaning days to uncover our stuff from the dust)

Doug an Arrente man who has a strong cultural connection to his land and the desire to forge a new way forward for his clan

Piti bowl

Bush Food and medicine

Anangu dance performers

Walking around the south facing side

Bush food and medicine

Uluru and Kata Tjuta National Park are now so accessible to everybody, and is jointly managed by both the traditional owners the Anangu people and National Parks with so many activities provided to explore, enjoy and learn about this much fought over and visited ‘heart’ of Australia.  Although we usually take up the challenge to climb any hill that is in sight, it was easier to resist this urge to ‘conquer the rock ‘ as we came to understand and appreciate why it is such an offence to the Anangu people who’s law and system for right living is written in its hidden folds and faces.

We have had some very special meet ups with people from near and a far. It was great having Brittany come for the ‘heart’ time. We have some new fellow travelling friends along with some who will remain local to where we visited.

Special visitation

My beautiful Britt

How about a smile Jack? You old camel at the back!

The girls on young Daisy, Dean on Grandpa Jack

The two Domi’s from Switzerland

From Wauchope to Old Andado Homestead

Xavier and Ally, from Epping to Alice.

Very cute kid – Tennant Creek Look out

Inspiring mum Mel

Jerry from Kelly’s Ranch Tennant Creek

The flora and fauna

Thorny Lizard

Desert Rose

Know now why this plant didn’t like me trying to grow it in my easter state rich black soil garden last year

Corellas

Desert Grevillia

More geological formations as we travelled north – some made by nature and some made by men.

Hot Potato – Otherwise known as Kalu Kalu or Devils Marbles

Sweet Potatoe

Open cut copper mine

Tennant Creek

Nitmuluk Gorge otherwise known as Katherine

Nitmuluk Gorge

We have made fond memory’s out of a few new places we called home for a while.

Yulara Campsite with dune viewing platform of Uluru and Kata Tjuta in the background

Morningtea with one iconic view

Gap view campsite at ALice Springs

Now entering the tropics we  have made a great splash in the thermal springs, had a great weekend trip to Darwin and back.

Finally seen the sea again after two months of following the old telegraph line

Northern setting sunset in Darwin

Deckchair Cinema Darwin

And now we are sitting back in Nitmuluk National Park enjoying the fish of Deans labour!

Katherine River

The big barra catch

On the plate

Tip: for those of you who are not linked through my facebook account, you can catch up on our last page of pics of painted deserts,billabong sunsets and into a town called Alice by selecting the bars on the top left hand side of this website. Off to the Kimberley’s we go….

We have been following the route from Adelaide that John McDoull Stuart made in 1861-62. As a result of this great northern expedition that was completed once he reached the Gulf, the Overland Telegraph Line linking Adelaide with the rest of the world and the original Ghan Railway Line to Alice Springs were both constructed. What is left now of these thousands of klm long structures, together with the railway sidings and ruins of towns that once were, is just enough for us to ponder on what people in those days dealt with in such a harsh inland climate and environment.

Flinders Rangers in the background of this old railway siding

Rockman – 2012 commemorative sculpture to mark 150th anniversary of first crossing of Australia south to north .. by the white invaders expedition

What’s left of the overland telegraph line 1872-1897

Commonwealth Railways Carriage at Maree Siding

railway siding on the old ghan line

Aboriginal Ochre Pit – still used today for trade, ceremony, medicine, art and for burial purposes

Farina – is one of those historic towns common to many other abandoned inland townships that have lost their structures and stories.  However this town is being fervently rediscovered for all to explore by the creative work of a group of volunteers. They conduct an annual works program that is preserving what structures are left and presenting the history and stories of the people who lived there through well signed walking trails and pergolas.

Underground Bakery – used for eight weeks each year when volunteer teams come to preserve and restore the stories from this historic town

Rust and Ruin

It was a very special experience to be at Farina for the 100th ANZAC Day commemorative services held and to be informed about the huge contribution made by this community during the two world wars.

ANZAC Day at Farina

100th ANZAC Day Dawn Service at Farina

special service to remember them

One of two sons killed in active service during WW2 from a small town that gave all the young men they had. So sad.

And then there was Lake Eyre – a brilliant landscape of sand,salt and sky.

walking on lake eyre

time for a sms from lake eyre

Although we refer to the inland as desert and you can drive straight roads that just  go on for ever, it is remarkable how much the view out the window constantly transforms into another different but stunning landscape.

William Creek to Coober Pedy Road

healthy looking horses but no grass in sight

Red sand drifts

What lies between the lines of red sand drifts

Moonscape – where Mad Max was filmed near Coward Springs

Looks like snow, tastes like salt

Some absolute surprises along the way.

the bubbler- fresh water spring surrounded by desert

We are quite sure Coober Pedy could be like no where else. Very different. With 80% of its population living underground, and the above ground landscape a mine field displaying pile after pile of their opal rush fever.

gated camping area at Coober Pedy

Underground Church – Coober Pedy

Ros supervising the site

Dean digging for Opal

April we have been on the South East side or the right side of the ‘bite’ in the State of South Australia. We travelled up along the coast and pulled into the seaside towns of Robe and Kingston. Looking to get off the road for Easter we made our way over to the Fleurieu Peninsular and experienced a couple of days of weather that allowed for some kayaking and fishing at Rapid Bay. We then crossed the Sealink Ferry to Kangaroo Island.

Robe-Limestone Coast

Kingston SE Sunset

Setting up at Sundown

Preferred Position

Catch of the day, Webbered in the change of the weather

kangaroo Is Ferry

Kangaroo Island Ferry

Kangaroo Island we found a mostly dry landscape having had no rain since July, however this was more evident where land was used for farming. A different look where the bush was left to grow in its natural habitat along the roadside corridors and National Parks. Here it was most beautiful -salt and drought tolerant – as if intentionally planted gardens.

Looking back at the mainland from Dudleys verandah

vines by the sea

salt lake

Nature created roadside gardens

West Bay – Flinders Chase National Park

We stayed at three beach locations over the two weeks we visited – Emu Bay in the north, Vivonne Bay in the south and Browns Beach at the neck of the Island. The island is about 150 klm east to west and 50 klm north to south. 

Emu Bau

Vivonne Bay

Browns Beach

We shared in a dawn Easter service and fish breakfast with a combined churches gathering at the first place of settlement in South Australia – Reeves Point. An invite we received when attending the Good Friday service at the Uniting Church in Kingscote.

Good Friday

Site of first colonial settlement in SA – 1836

The island has a farmers market once a month and all manner of Island produced foods including Lingurian Bee Honey, Sheep’s yogurt and cheese, wine and the most succulent fresh figs we have ever tasted rewarded our visit there. While the weather was willing, we had another couple of days down on the beach in the 4WD and some lovely moon light fishing from the Jetty where Dean caught some squid.

Emu Bay – Kangaroo Island

full moon rising

squid

There was a good amount of wildlife, we saw Tammar Wallabies, echidnas, koalas everywhere, and unfortunately, many of these were on the road! (very upsetting to see, but what really shocked us more was the recipe book for the same in some of the local shops!!) The bird life was more visual then we have seen elsewhere, and included tiny wrens through to big raptors, inhabiting both land and sea. As we ventured into Flinders Chase National Park we were able to observe large Seal populations around the craggy rocks.

Flinders Chase NP

We are currently in Adelaide and the cooling of the season is evident in the foliage of this beautiful city’s deciduous trees. We had intended to follow the coast west from here, but have made the decision to alter this course given we are finding the cooling conditions setting in, and we want to be where it’s warm.

We have spent the last week here getting prepared for our trek north. We have had the satellite phone activated, extra fuel filter fitted to exclude any contaminates getting into the diesel engine and getting the wheel bearings serviced. Full tanks of water and food supplies onboard. A big change in scenery and culture is about to shake us up – and we are very excited. So tomorrow Wednesday 21st we will head off north along what is known as the Oonandatta track towards lake Eyre.